The Trevigian Pre-Alps offer varied landscapes and diverse experiences, and when our guests ask me to recommend an excursion that goes beyond simple postcard beauty, there's one route I always suggest that holds a deep soul, divided between the solemnity of the great beech woods and the still-open wounds of our history: the Pagnoca Path in the Cansiglio Highlands.
Situated on the southern slope of the’Cansiglio Plateau, Starting from the hamlet of Montaner, this circular route is not a simple walk. It is a true journey through time. Here, where an almost sacred silence reigns today, broken only by the rustling of leaves, men guided by an ideal of freedom once moved. To retrace their steps means understanding how the mountain can be, at the same time, a fortress, a refuge, and a silent witness.
To understand the spirit of this place, one must take a leap back to the autumn of 1943. In the aftermath of September 8th, as Italy plunged into one of its darkest moments, the spark of the Resistance ignited amongst these mountains. Giovanbattista Bitto, a young officer originally from Montaner itself, decided it was not the time to stand by and watch. With the combat name of “Focaccia”, and with the fundamental and clandestine support of the village priest, Monsignor Giuseppe Faè, he organised the first rebel cells.
The trail we're proposing today follows exactly the route of their first, historic ascent towards the Cansiglio Plateau. Up here, amongst the karst ravines and the protection of the dense vegetation, the “Vittorio Veneto” Brigades Group came to life. Walking along the Pagnoca Trail means treading the same ground, breathing the same crisp air those young people did, and looking at the same trees that offered them shelter. It's a multisensory experience that transforms trekking into an act of living memory.
Our journey begins by leaving the car in the large car park at Montaner (330m), a hamlet within the municipality of Sarmede. The air here is already different from that of the valley floor, denser and scented with woodland. After passing the majestic parish church and its tall bell tower, take a narrow lane northwards, recognisable by a vibrant mural and an educational noticeboard that officially introduces the route. From this point on, your eyes should seek a single landmark: the trail marker. CAI no. 1061.
The climb begins resolutely along an ancient stone mule track, bordered by dry-stone walls covered in moss that seem to want to hold the earth back. The path initially winds through chestnut and hazelnut trees before giving way to the first beech trees. After about an hour of steady walking, the incline offers a respite and the woods suddenly open up onto a bright clearing: you are at the Chapel of the Holy (520 m). This small, isolated stone building, surrounded by greenery, is the ideal place to stop, listen to the birdsong, and take a deep breath of mountain peace.
Continuing the northward path, the route intercepts a convenient forest road. The vegetation becomes increasingly impressive, typical of the plateau. In a short time, you reach the Col de Faè Pass (720 m). The “lame” are one of the most fascinating elements of Cansiglio: being a karst territory without surface rivers, these depressions in the ground were artificially waterproofed with clay by ancient shepherds to collect rainwater, which was essential for watering livestock. Today, they appear as silent pools of water, dark mirrors reflecting the tree canopies.
The path continues, almost suspended in a damp and primordial atmosphere, to the next Erbin's skis (890 m). Here nature becomes monumental: you’ll find yourselves walking inside a wide natural semicircle dominated by a beech wood with slender, silvery trunks, a true green cathedral that changes colour with every season, from the bright green of spring to the fiery gold of autumn.
Upon entering the municipality of Cordignano, you will find the Carbonai Park. This site houses a faithful reconstruction of a poet (the typical charcoal burner's hut made of wood). It is a tribute to an extraordinary category of workers who, for centuries, lived in very harsh conditions within these woods, transforming the timber of Cansiglio into charcoal for the markets in the plains.
Leaving the Coal Miners' Park behind, a short and sweet detour will take you to the summit of the Col Alt (866 m). Here, where a minimalist and poignant monument dedicated to partisans stands, the mountain offers its greatest reward: a 360-degree view which, on the clearest days, allows the gaze to sweep over the hills, hinting at the profile of the Venetian lagoon and the Friulian plain. It's the perfect spot to enjoy a packed lunch.
The return route begins by descending along a forest track heading west. Along the descent, you will brush past Casera Gnesina, a rustic building that during the war years served as a real operational base for the partisans of Pagnoca. A little further on, nestled in a beautiful and soft grassy hollow, you will find the restored farmhouses of Domenico's Farmhouse (800 m), recognisable by a large wooden sign.
Continuing south, the path skirts Mount Castelir, leading you to the panoramic Little Church of the Alpini, a small temple that seems to overlook the plain below. From here, taking the path CAI n. 1040, you descend rapidly towards Borgo Val. Before completing the loop and returning to the car park, treat yourself to a final moment of contemplation by visiting the Little Church of Saint CeciliaIt is the oldest sacred building in Montaner (13th-14th century), a stone jewel that survived a severe fire in 2013 and is today a symbol of rebirth for the entire community.
Based on Tobacco Cartography no. 012
A trek of over five hours, filled with steps, climbs, and stories to process, requires the right finale. The real secret to Slow Travel It's not just in the walking, but in knowing how to appreciate the value of rest after exertion.
Upon your return to The Court of Marga, the crisp air of Cansiglio will give way to the warm and relaxing embrace of our apartments. After taking off your hiking boots, there's nothing better than sitting back in total relaxation, perhaps opening a good bottle of local wine to relive in your mind the views of Col Alt and the protective shade of the beech forests.
Our land still has so much to tell: if you want to be inspired for your next destinations, take a look at the tips and itineraries present in our blog. If, on the other hand, you want to start planning your next adventure of nature, comfort and authentic hospitality, Book your stay in Miane now. The most beautiful trails all start here.
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