In my work as a sommelier here at The Court of Marga, there is one moment I prefer above all others: when a guest, returning from a day of exploration, asks me to recommend a bottle capable of surprising them. After having guided you through the Neo-Gothic rooms of the Papadopoli Giol Castle and to have ideally opened the doors of their Ancient Cellars of 1427, I wish to close this author's triptych by pouring you an extraordinary glass.

Today I'm taking you with me to discover a wine that doesn't just tell the story of its region, but throws open a window onto the future of viticulture: the Bronner, a varietal wine PIWI.

Choosing this white for the cellar of our apartments in Miane was an act of love. It is an emotional wine, incredibly taut and crystal-clear, born from vines that have made a solemn promise to the land: to eliminate all chemicals to return to the primordial purity of nature.

My vision on PIWI: when nature defends itself

When I tell our guests about PIWI grape varieties, I always see a glint of healthy curiosity in their eyes. This strange word is actually a German acronym, Fungus-resistant, which simply means “Fungus-resistant grape varieties”.

To understand why they fascinate me so much as a professional, we need to take a little step back in history.

At the end of the 19th century, the arrival of diseases such as downy mildew and powdery mildew from America threatened to destroy European vineyards. Since then, for over a century, man has had to defend the plants with continuous chemical treatments in the conventional world, or with massive washes of copper and sulphur in the organic one. However, in Northern European research institutes, someone had a visionary insight: And what if the vine itself defended itself, without the need for poisons?

Through decades of natural cross-breeding (absolutely not GMOs, but simple pollination between flowers of different vines, exactly as bees do), these new varieties have been born. Strong plants, which possess antibodies in their DNA to repel fungal attacks.

For me, growing PIWI is the purest manifesto of agricultural ecology: it means reduce vineyard treatments to 90%. No pesticides, almost no copper, and most importantly, the land is not constantly trod on by tractors, remaining soft, alive and rich in biodiversity. A regenerative philosophy that Tenuta Giol has believed in since 1987 and which I am proud to support.

Il Bronner: the white gold gem I chose for you

Within this sustainable revolution, I wanted to select for you the noblest and most precious variety from the estate: the Bronner.

Selected in 1975 by the Institute of Fribourg and named after the 19th-century scientist Johann Philipp Bronner, this white grape variety is a true rarity in the Italian landscape. Throughout the peninsula, it is cultivated in only a few small plots of land in Alto Adige and here, in the depths of Veneto, where only the bravest winemakers have managed to understand its character.

Il Bronner does not accept compromise, nor does it seek shortcuts through artificial or flashy perfumes. It is an aristocratic and vertical wine, demanding lively soils to express its natural acidity and profound minerality. In the glass, Giol's Bronner transforms into the most naked, sincere, and elegant interpreter of the San Polo di Piave terroir.

My Tasting Sheet: a sensory journey in the glass

Make yourselves comfortable in the living room of your apartment at La Corte di Marga, serve the Bronner at a temperature of about 10-12°C and let me guide you step by step through this auteur tasting.

• Visual Inspection: I hold it up to the light and am enchanted by its crystalline brilliance. It has a pale straw-yellow colour, full of beautiful youth, crossed by sharp, clean greenish reflections that hint at the extraordinary freshness we will find in the mouth.
• The Olfactory Examination I bring the glass to my nose and am struck by its vertical and aristocratic progression. The opening smells of crisp green apple and sharp citrus notes, like cedar zest and lime. A few seconds of aeration are enough for the botanical soul to emerge: wild white flowers, freshly cut hay, and medicinal herbs. But it is on the finish that the wine truly reveals itself, with a deep, chalky mineral trail that reminds me of flint struck by rain.
• The Gusto-Olfactory Examination At the first sip, it's a true blade of light. The attack in the mouth is taut, guided by a vibrant freshness that makes the taste buds salivate. An instant later, however, an almost saline, marine sapidity explodes, lending the sip a beautiful three-dimensionality and consistency. Despite its zippy nature, the body is graceful and perfectly balanced. The finish is very long, persistent, and incredibly clean, leaving a crisp memory of citrus and a subtle, elegant note of bitter white almond. A glass that constantly calls for the next sip.

My sommelier's tips for the perfect pairing

The Bronner from Tenuta Giol is an eclectic wine, which pairs well with clean, unfussy cuisine and loves to be matched with refined combinations.

Thanks to its extraordinary acidity and mineral savouriness, it is the ideal companion that I suggest for dishes based on Adriatic fish, raw seafood, amberjack tartare, and risottos with wild herbs from the hills (like our beloved Squelch It is a magnificent surprise when paired with fresh goat's cheese or a spring vegetable soup during your apartment dinners.

A toast that smells of the future at La Corte di Marga

Exploring our territory also means this: having the privilege of tasting stories of deep ecology directly from your glass, trusting the experience of those who select only the best for your stay.

Uncorking a bottle of Bronner PIWI in your flat The Court of Marga It's the perfect way to round off a day of travel. Imagine the scene: evening gently falling on our pre-Alpine hills, the regenerating silence of our spaces, and in your hands, a wine that smells of the future, of clean earth, and of absolute respect.

If you love journeys that stir both mind and palate, I invite you to continue browsing the stories and secret destinations of our blog. If, however, you are ready to treat yourselves to an unforgettable holiday of nature, history, and excellent flavours, Book your stay at La Corte di Marga now. I will be happy to welcome you and advise you on your next glass of wine.

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