When thinking of the UNESCO heritage hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, the mind immediately (and rightly) turns to the golden bubbles of Prosecco Superiore. And yet, for those curious enough to thoroughly explore the terroir, this land is capable of offering unexpected surprises. One of these is the Wildbacher Collalto, the rebellious red wine I am about to tell you about.
As a sommelier The Court of Marga, today I want to take you off the beaten track to introduce you to a true oenological “rebel”. A foreign, rustic, almost indomitable grape variety that crossed the Alps more than a century ago to find its sole Italian home in Susegana, in the lands of the Counts Collalto: her majesty the Wildbacher.
The history of Wildbacher is fascinating. Originally from Styria (Austria), where it is mainly vinified as a tart, sharp rosé wine (Schilcher), this red-berried grape variety arrived in Veneto between the late 18th and the 19th century.
It was the foresight of the Collalto family to plant it on the clayey and calcareous soils that surround the Castle of San Salvatore. The result was astonishing: the climate and soil of Treviso tamed the harshness of the Austrian grape variety, transforming it into a great red wine for ageing. Today, the Conte Collalto Winery they are practically the only keepers in Italy of this rarity.
Pouring a glass of Wildbacher (in its oak-aged version) means preparing for an experience of great character.
If you have bought a bottle of Wildbacher after your winery visit, here is how to make the most of it in your apartment kitchen in The Court of Marga.
Forget light dishes: this is a wine that demands succulence. It is sensational when paired with a cheeseboard of aged alpine cheeses (such as Piave Vecchio or Asiago Stravecchio) accompanied by fig jam. But it is at its absolute best with meats: a wild boar stew, a roast from the oven with aromatic herbs, or a rich pasta with duck ragù.
Uncork it an hour beforehand, let it breathe and enjoy it slowly on the terrace, perhaps after spending the afternoon relaxing in our exclusive swimming pool.
Wildbacher is an ancient dark-grape variety originating from Styria in Austria. In Italy it is considered a true rarity, cultivated almost exclusively on the Treviso hills of Susegana, where it has found a perfect microclimate to express great structure and elegance.
It is a red wine of great character and longevity. It is distinguished by intense aromas of dark wild berries (blackberry and blueberry), spices, black pepper and balsamic notes of undergrowth. On the palate it presents excellent acidity, elegant tannins and a long, dry finish.
You can buy it directly at the wine shop of the Cantine Conte Collalto in Susegana (about 22 minutes from Miane), combining the purchase with a wonderful guided tour of their historic underground barrel cellar, or conveniently at La Corte di Marga in Wine Shop